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Thursday, August 26, 2021

Moses Sleeper


Moses Sleeper
Moses Sleeper is a bloomy rind cheese.

When sampling cheese, I often buy the same product at least twice from two different stores whenever possible, just to compare and make sure there aren't differences in taste due to the way the cheese is stored. It's a good thing I did when trying Moses Sleeper because the first time I purchased it, I did so from a shop that really shouldn't have stored anything so far past its prime in the case. It's a shame when cheese mongers sell a product so old it starts to emit a foul stench. Anyone who reads this blog knows I'm not afraid of the funk, but there's a difference between stinky cheese and cheese so far past its prime the entire thing oozes and reeks of ammonia. Selling cheese this old really does the company a disservice. 

Jasper Hill creates some wonderful cheese such as Moses Sleeper.


Sold at the appropriate age, Mose Sleeper is a wonderful Brie-like cheese. If Brie had a sturdy older brother who showered a little bit less but still dressed with finesse, it would be Moses Sleeper. The flavor is more potent, which is fitting considering its name. According to the Jasper Hill website

This cheese’s historic namesake, Moses Sleeper, and his compatriot, Constant Bliss, were Revolutionary War scouts killed while defending a blockhouse along the Northeast Kingdom’s legendary Bayley Hazen Military Road.    

Though the flavor is stronger than traditional French Brie, I didn't think it was enough to mislabel it as a wash-rind cheese, as one reviewer did. No, Moses Sleeper falls into the bloomy rind category. Its white, velvety exterior, created by the addition of penicillum camberti, covers a milky, buttery, mushroomy, tangy paste that gets gooier the longer it ages. With time, the layers of flavor also intensify, and the overall taste becomes richer, nuttier, more earthy, and pungent. 

Moses Sleeper
Moses Sleeper on rye crackers makes a great snack!


Moses Sleeper, a soft-ripened cheese, starts with pasteurized cow milk and standard animal rennet. Sorry strict vegetarians and vegans, you will probably want to skip this one. After the curds are cut, ladled into molds, and drained, the 16-oz wheels are aged six to 12 weeks, compared to traditional Brie, which is aged four to 10 weeks.  

The heartier flavor of this Brie-like product pairs well with a country baguette. It can be served chaud, en croute, or at room temperature with stone-fruit or apricot jam. It works well in baked dishes such as mac & cheese but works equally well in a mixed greens salad with fruit and champaign vinaigrette. Presenting it on a cheese board with a variety of accompaniments such as red grapes, country pate, dried salami, dried figs, cornichon, rosemary crackers, toasted almonds, and dried tomato slices is an excellent option. 

Calvados pairs well with Moses Sleeper.

As far as beverages go, Moses Sleeper pairs well with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Zinfandel, a Californian Pinot Noir, Sauternes, or Calvados. If beer is more your thing, go with Time Crystals #1, Belgian Tripel, or a Bohemian-style pilsner. 



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