Thomasville Tomme

Thomasville Tomme cheese

I have to preface this blog post by saying any complaint I'm going to share has nothing to do with Thomasville Tomme cheese itself or the company that makes this lovely product. My criticisms are directed at the store where I purchased the cheese, and it's not the first time I have been disappointed by this large chain store. It may not be worth mentioning, though, other than to say that when a cheesemonger tries to sell you old moldy cheese and claims that's how the cheese is supposed to look, take a look at the cheese maker's website before you put down any cash and end up with something well past its prime. More often than not, you will find a description of how the cheese is supposed to look, smell, and taste, and while mold occurring on cheese usually isn't anything too terrible, in this case, Thomasville Tomme isn't supposed to have it. In fact, Sweet Grass Dairy suggests cutting away any mold that happens to develop after the cheese is exposed to oxygen, so if anyone tells you that the mold on this particular type of cheese is not just acceptable but desirable and intended, don't trust her. 

Cut away any mold that develops.

 

On a brighter note, and bright is a great description of this cheese, Tomasville Tomme is a beautiful everyday cheese with a lot of versatility. While it smells like a standard Swiss cheese and has a strong nutty flavor, there's also a wonderful earthy and mushroomy aftertaste, reminiscent of the flavor one finds in a bloomy rind. It's very good. My reaction to eating this cheese is like the second "woo" in this video, displaying genuine appreciation without swooning, jumping up and down, or falling over backward. Every time I eat it, I think, "Wow, that's a really nice cheese." 

Thomasville Tomme is a nice everyday cheese

 

As far as flavor goes, there are notes of straw and grass without any funkiness or dankness. Because the milk used to make this cheese comes from cows that feed primarily on grass, the flavor is fresh, full, and rich with a hint of butter and sweetness. The various subtle notes make a lovely combination.

In a previous post, I discussed tomme-style cheese. In brief, these cheeses are traditionally lower in milk fat, are less acidic, and have a rustic natural rind. Thomasville Tomme is no exception, though I prefer this to many tomme-style cheeses I have tried. There's just something more intriguing about this cheese. It's not bitter or chalky, and it's not dry. In fact, it has an unctuous, beefy interior without being truly oily.  

 

The interior of Thomasville Tomme is beefy.

Like traditional tomme-style cheese, Thomasville Tomme is made from raw milk sourced from the same farm, and animal rennet is used. It's aged approximately 60 days. Unlike many larger companies, Sweet Grass Dairy focuses on sustainability. According to the Sweet Grass Dairy website, Founders Al and Desiree Wehner moved from conventional dairying to a more natural method. They wanted to allow their cows to eat grass. These barn-free dairy cows in Georgia produce milk year-round. 

It's not surprising that Thomasville Tomme has won several awards including first place at the American Cheese Society Competition in 2002, and, more recently, a bronze award in the World Cheese Competition in 2021. 

Although this cheese can be used in cooking, it really shines as a table cheese. Its flavor is more pronounced at room temperature. Pair this cheese with rye bread and dried meat or sausage, seed crackers, green grapes, apricots, roasted nuts, candied pecans, or sun-dried tomatoes. Cube it and add it to a fresh spring salad with Champaign vinaigrette, or add it to a club sandwich.  

 

Grenache pairs well with Thomasville Tomme.

 

Serve Thomasville Tomme with a California Merlot, Pinot Noir, Madrain, Gamay, Grenache, Chardonnay, or a Sauvignon Blanc blend. You can also try it with a Chenin Blanc or even Chanpagne. Those at Sweet Grass Dairy suggest a hoppy Pale Ale if beer is more your thing, but you can also try it with a Doppelbock. 

 

 

Tomme de Crayeuse

I spent a lot of time eyeing this cheese before I could work up the courage to buy some. I would go to the store, take a few moments to stare at it while it eyed me back and then turn around and walk away, defeated. It's the first time I've ever been afraid to try a cheese. You see, when it comes to stinky cheese, I always thought I was as brave as they come. I generally don't mind a little whiff of ammonia that occurs when cheeses go beyond the ripe stage, and readers probably know that I'm down with the funk. The smell of a good stinky cheese intrigues me rather than repels me. Tomme de Cayeuse is something else, though. It's only for the truly brave of heart.

While deciding whether or not I wanted to try this rustic fromage, I did some research. I read reviews and couldn't understand why I was seeing descriptions of the aroma it emits being "strong" or "earthy". Nowhere did I read what people should have been saying, that this cheese stinks. It smells like the aftermath of a sinister event that went down behind a dumpster. It smells like death, a rotting corpse or trash that has been left outside in the sun too long. Am I exaggerating? I don't think so. People describe the smell of the durian fruit as pineapple sitting in an outhouse and still want to try it. Well, despite the aroma of this cheese causing alarm, I figured I would at least sample it if I could bring myself to buy some. I imagined sealing the wedge I would purchase in a container to prevent the entire refrigerator from smelling like a food experiment gone wrong, very wrong. With a plan in mind, I finally grabbed a sizeable wedge, plugged my nose and headed to the checkout lane hoping anyone around me wouldn't be offended.

Before I get to the flavor, let me tell you about the name. Tomme or Tome refers to a type of cheese usually produced in the Alps of France or Switzerland. These cheeses are often made with skim milk or leftover milk and are usually earthy and reminiscent of other alpine cheeses. Different types of Tomme cheeses are identified by the regions where they are made. Tomme de Savoie is one of the more famous tomme-style cheeses, and Tomme de Crayeuse is also made in the Savoie region. Tomme de Crayeuse was actually first created somewhat by accident when an affineur, Max Schmidhauser, was trying to find a way to improve a Tomme de Savoie recipe in 1997. Like Tomme de Savoie, Tomme de Crayeuse is made with cow's milk, and it shares many of the same characteristics.

Crayeuse means "chalky" in French. I can't say that this cheese is really chalky, but it's not oily or soft and is somewhat dry without being crumbly. Some claim that the name is a play on words, a way for people to remember its name by associating it with Tom Cruise. It's a bit of a stretch, but now that I know this, I can't help but think of the Scientology activist and American actor every time I see this cheese. Unlike the clean-cut movie star, Tomme de Crayeuse is on the dungy side. The rind is brownish and moldy looking with patches of white and gray. It looks a bit scary, not like something anyone would immediately think of consuming. The mold develops during the ripening stage that takes place in a cave.

As far as the flavor, it's dank, earthy and mushroomy with hints of the barnyard and hay, which is no surprise when you think about the cheese aging in a warm, moist grotto. In the case of this cheese, it's the one time I will say that's it's really OK to skip consuming the rind, though some people like the taste of deep earth and dirt. The more this cheese ages, the scarier the natural rind becomes. That's where you will find strong ammonia flavors after it ages past its prime. The interior also changes as it ages, becoming gummier and the flavor woodier. Where this odd creation succeeds is in the very inner paste. Here you will find a very lovely and nutty, mild cheese that has faint notes of toast and straw. You might even detect a very slight hint of citrus. Heat the cheese and any bitterness or strong lingering flavors soften, creating a wonderfully flavorful gooey mass.

Serve this cheese with selected charcuterie, sausages, fresh fruit, rustic breads or whole-grain crackers. Sneak it in baked dished for an extra bite or serve at room temperature on a cheese board.

Pinot Noir or Pinot Nero pairs well with Tomme style cheeses.

Tomme de Crayeuse can take a big bold wine with lots of tannins like a Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz. It also pairs well with something more subtle like a Cote de Rhône or Pinot Noir. Gigondas is an excellent choice. You can also try it with an Alsace Riesling, Chardonnay or a Rousette de Savoie. Surprisingly, slightly sweeter wines are a great accompaniment. Give a Tawny Port, Madeira or a Sherry a try. A cheese like this pairs exceptionally well with beer. Try it with Gueuze Girardin or your favorite lager.