Ashley, Lovely Ashley

I started this review about a year ago but fell into my typical pattern of eating and enjoying the cheese without concentrating on the elements that make up a good write-up. Sure, I jotted down a few details of what I was tasting, but it's easy to throw caution to the wind and dive fully into the pleasure of cheese consumption, neglecting my duties as a writer or wannabe writer, whatever the case may be. In any case, I promised myself I would come back to this review. I didn't think it would take me as long as it did. 

This time, I was determined to pay more attention and take some thorough notes as I ate, although I couldn't be too hard on myself for enjoying the previous samplings free from any obligations but those I place on my own shoulders, most of which don't relate to cheese. The reality is that some cheese can be so good at encouraging a temporary escape, it's hard to be in work mode or even thought mode while consuming it.

Ashley Cheese from MouCo in Fort Collins, Co.

Ashley is an award-winning, soft-ripened cow's milk cheese from MouCo, a family-owned company I mentioned not too long ago. This Colorado establishment is focused on producing quality dairy products, but it's also dedicated to sustainability and giving back to the community. Founders Robert Poland, with his cool rock-and-roll vibe that lingers from his past, and Barvaian-born Brigit Halbreiter, with her knowledge and interest in cheese-making that was ignited when she was a young girl, have kept their dedication to creating top-rated, soft-ripened cheeses in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains throughout the years.  

MouCo cheese has been served in some of the nation's top restaurants, but the soft-ripened cheese isn't just a hit here in the United States; people from all over the world appreciate a variety of their soft-ripened wheels, from Camembert to ColoRouge, and their cheese has even made an appearance at the UN!

After tasting MouCo's gentle wash-rind variety, ColoRouge, I didn't expect the flavor punch that Ashley delivers. The aroma is inviting, earthy and slightly sour with a light barnyard aura. Under the bloomy rind that's covered in vegetable ash lies a supple paste that's velvety and silky smooth on the tongue. 

Ashley has vegetable ash on the bloomy rind

Depending on the age of this cow's milk cheese, the flavor can range from sweet and mild with nutty undertones to deep and earthy with tangy, pungent high notes. No matter what the age, though, Ashley is never going to be outrageous and never gets overly deep. MouCo cheeses always fall into the milder category, even when the flavors are memorable and delicious. 

Ashley is nicely salted, well-balanced, and ends on a lingering ever-so-slight bitter note that's unexpected but pleasant, like the horn coming in toward the end of the Beta Band's Dry The Rain, a beautiful addition that starts as a question but ends up adding layers to the final product. When heated, the overall flavor becomes more woodsy and light without losing its depth. It’s complex without being complicated.

In short, this is a lovely cheese. It’s flavorful and intriguing without being overwhelming. 

Though it might seem counterintuitive because of the obvious saltiness (but not overly so) of Ashley, it pairs well with cornichons, olives, and Salami. It has a distinctive look, so it would be a great addition to a cheese board alongside sliced pears, green grapes, toasted walnuts, water crackers, Rustic Bakery Artisan Crisps, fig jam, and a light mousse pate. I substituted Ashley in a pasta and Brie dish and did not take the suggestion to remove the rind. The baked dish may not look as sophisticated that way, but, wow, is the resulting flavor excellent! Ashley pairs nicely with berries or other sweet fruits, but it can easily be part of savory dishes as well. One recipe suggested cutting the wheel into pieces and deep-frying them for an indulgent appetizer. 

When it comes to beverages, Ashley is best served with Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc. Try it with Gamay, a Syrah blend, or Zinfandel. If the menu calls for a dessert wine, Sauternes is a good option. A dry cider, wheat ale, sweet stout, or Calvados also goes well with Ashley. 

Chardonnay pairs well with Ashley. Original photo by Steve Buissinne