ColoRouge

Nestled in the foothills of Fort Collins under the vast mountain skies of Colorado sits a wonderful cheese company called MouCo that brings a variety of soft-ripened cheeses to the area and beyond. Each MouCo selection comes in a petite 4.4 oz round, the perfect-sized morsel to include on a cheese board or in a picnic basket. Using antibiotic-free milk gathered from a local dairy in the Front Range, MouCo follows strict quality standards of pasteurization before starting the cheese-making process in order to produce some of the most intriguing cheeses in the area. You can read more about the company at the following link: https://www.mouco.com/our-story/ 

Fort Collins, Colorado under a big blue sky

On their website, MouCo explains that the company's name comes from combining the first part of the word mountains with that of Colorado, and since the cows that produce the milk needed for these cheeses make the sound “moo,” the name is fitting. 

What the company doesn’t know is that “mou mou” is a term my family uses to express affection. It’s a long story about how we started saying this, but the short version is that we used to say “mwah,” an exaggerated kissing sound, whenever one of us was leaving, but since my mom is French, we would say it twice as we air-kissed each cheek of the person staying. Eventually, "mwah" got shortened to “moo,” but we always spelled it “mou.” Not surprisingly, whenever I see the word “mou” I smile. It's a charming word that brings up warm memories. 

Another short side story is that many years ago, not long after MouCo was founded, I visited the facility with a company I was working for at the time. We had a lovely Camembert cheese tasting after a tour of the grounds. I remember it being a very enjoyable experience. Since its inception, MouCo has expanded its line of soft-ripened cheeses past Camembert to include a truffle cheese, one with ash, another with peppercorns, and an orange wash-rind option. Of these, I have tried two, the wash rind, of course, and the Camembert. 

MouCo's many accomplishments could have led to inflated egos, but this isn't a company that flaunts its awards or boasts about its success. In fact, if you want to find out about the incredible number of bronze, silver, and gold medals MouCo has accumulated, you have to do a little digging. One of their more decorated cheeses is an ash-rind cheese appropriately named Ashley. I look forward to giving this one a try soon, as the reviews of it make it sound heavenly. As readers might guess, though, my love of stinky cheese drew me to their wash-rind option for this review. 

My first impression of MouCo cheese, no matter the variety, is that it's very subtle. That was true when I tried some while touring the facility years ago and remains so today. Even as their cheeses age and the taste becomes more complex, they all seem to retain a young cheese flavor. This might sound disappointing, but it's not, especially if you know what to expect going into a tasting. Despite my love of big, bold flavors and stinky cheese so wild it will force out an exclamation, I also find subtlety appealing. With MouCo cheeses, the flavors are there; the taste buds just need a little coaxing to appreciate them. 

Most recently, I picked up the ColoRouge, another cute portmanteau of sorts combining Colorado and rouge (French for red) into a catchy title for this wash-rind variety. I sampled it both young and also when it was more aged. Both times, I found this natural rind selection on the verge of a funky cheese without quite getting there. If Funkmeister is George Clinton, ColoRouge would be more like Teena Marie, which isn't bad, just different. It lacks some of the depth and nuttiness of the heavy hitters like Pont L'Eveque or Epoisses, but that doesn't mean it lacks charm or flavor.

ColoRouge cheese from Fort Collins, Colorado

ColoRouge is made from whole pasteurized cow’s milk to which a natural, non-GMO animal rennet is added. The texture is meaty yet supple and soft. The rind isn't as gritty or sandy as some wash rinds that form large crystals on the surface. This is more refined, about as opposite of Ardrahan as one can get while still rubbing elbows with the wash-rind crowd.

When sampling this petit fromage, I detected a distinct sour note that's not unpleasant or overly sharp, but this cheese does have a little bite...well, maybe more of a nip. The saltiness is perfect, not too much but enough to enhance the earthy taste. I find all the MouCo cheeses on the subtly sweet side. Think of how excellent butter can be sweet, and you get the picture. ColoRouge is mellow with just a hint of stink. This would be an excellent cheese if you're looking to introduce wash-rind cheese to someone who’s fearful of adventure eating. 

Some ColoRouge awards include:

• 2016 - Gold, Los Angeles International Dairy Competition
• 2009 - Second, American Cheese Society
• 2004 - First, American Cheese Society
• 2023 - Third, American Cheese Society 

ColoRouge is a wash-rind cheese

The interior is creamy and buttery

As far as pairing ColoRouge, it can be tricky. Because this is not a powerful stinky cheese, it competes with other strong flavors like rye to be noticed. Stick with crusty French bread, Croccantini, or water crackers. Crisp green apples or celery can also serve as a fine accompaniment. Due to its subtlety, ColoRouge can be served with either sweet or savory items. It’s surprisingly good with olive oil potato chips! Try it on a pain aux amandes cracker with fig jam or baked in a noodle or potato dish. It also goes well with dried meats on a charcuterie board. Because the flavor is already subtle for a wash-rind cheese, heating it doesn’t alter the taste too much. 

ColoRouge pairs well with a variety of beverages. Some wines that make a good accompaniment include Pinot Blanc, riesling, zinfandel, and Oloroso. Try it with a nice Belgian ale or Oskar Blues IPA. Food writer Fiona Beckett suggests serving Calvados with wash-rind cheeses, an excellent option for ColoRouge. The tangy notes in the apple brandy complement the creamy texture and mild nutty flavor of this cheese. 

Markus Winkler photo