Leonora Goat Cheese Review

Leonora 

Made in small batches from the milk of one herd of goats in Leon, Spain, this goat cheese has a mold-ripened bloomy rind with just a touch of dark ash on it and, unlike other lightly aged goat cheeses, is shaped in a loaf rather than in a round log. It's reminiscent of Bucheron in its flavor and texture but has a much more rustic outer rind that's tough, chewy and very slightly bitter, almost as if it wasn't aged carefully in the caves and too much ammonia accumulated. Some people love that flavor, and I'll admit that I'm not afraid of it. Though not completely offensive, the flavor of the rind is almost overpowering, which is a shame, as it masks the delicate flavor of the rest of the cheese. If you like a sharp and tangy goat flavor that lingers in your mouth long after you eat the cheese, though, you will love this odd little treasure. 

The interior isn't as robust as the rind, especially around the edges where there's a thin layer of what looks like brie when it starts to age and run. Some people call this the creamline, and the more the cheese ages, the more this area will grow, soften and even run. That slightly gooey layer might be the best part of this cheese, as it's very mild and intriguing in both flavor and texture. It ends up tying the overall flavor of the cheese together nicely. 

The rustic looking rind hides an interior that's snowy white and has a soft texture. The cheese itself is actually milder than Bucheron and less lemony. It's also not quite as smooth. I would say that the inside of this cheese is more flaky and has a somewhat dry mouth feel. Don't get me wrong, it's a creamy cheese, especially if you let it linger in your mouth, but with the first bite, it does hit your palate in the way a dry white wine does. Once you get past the rind, the center of the loaf is a mixture of piquant, pungent, creamy and tart flavors with hints of lemon and hay or grass.  

People keep saying to the French, "Watch out!" because other quality, lightly aged goat cheeses are emerging around the globe. In all honesty, I don't think the French should worry...yet. 

Goats in Spain.

Like most goat cheeses that aren't aged for long periods (this one is aged three months) Leonora pairs well with a dessert wine or sherry. I loved it plain, but it is also nice on salads.