Hooper, You Elegant Little Stinker

What a beautiful cheese this is.

It has been a while since I've splurged and purchased extravagant cheese online. When I'm buying cheese to sample for this blog or in general, I try to keep my spending limit under a certain amount, which isn't easy when my eye is automatically drawn to the more expensive varieties. After my last escapade, though, I felt I deserved a special treat. 

I've sampled cheese from Vermont Creamery before and haven't ever been disappointed, quite the opposite, in fact. The award-winning company produces some of the finest cheeses in the world, and that's not an exaggeration. 

Since I've already gone a little bit into the history of Vermont Creamery in past posts, I’ll just add that the cheese and other products the company produces aren’t the only extraordinary aspects of this operation. The founders and everyone involved do an incredible job of promoting sustainability while focusing on producing extraordinary products. In sharp contrast to Kraft Foods, Vermont Creamery is certified as a B Corp, which means the company meets the highest standards when it comes to social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability. It does good things.

Hooper is a cute shape

When I first saw an image of Hooper, there was no way I could resist it. It was exactly what I was looking for in a cheese to review. It checked all the boxes by 1. Being something I had never seen or heard of before. 2. having an appealing shape. It looks like a prim little doughnut. And 3. It's a wash-rind variety. Swoon! Sure, it was a little over my usual spending limit, but I had a good feeling this was going to be a grand adventure. After taking a deep breath and bravely pressing the purchase button, I waited impatiently for the package to arrive. 

And, boy, was this little stinker worth the price, the wait, and the effort it took to find. It is one of the best cheeses I have had in a very, very long time.

Hooper is named after Vermont Creamery's co-founder, Allison Hooper, who learned cheesemaking during a year abroad in France back in the 1980s. She and Bob Reese founded the company in 1984, and they have been producing wonderful dairy products ever since.

This lovely ring of cheese has a classic wash-rind, stinky aroma that’s not overpowering. It smells like a day at a well-maintained petting zoo, less pungent than some of its heavy-hitting relatives that have odors veering into unkempt barnyard territory. Hooper also looks pretty with wrinkly, snow-white, upright sides and the colors of a soft orange sunset sitting delicately on top. The wrinkly white exterior comes from the use of Geotrichum mold in the aging process. 

Hooper has a wonderfully textured exterior

As far as flavor, the cheese is perfectly balanced. It's somehow subtle but incredibly memorable, so much so that after the last bite disappeared, I found myself craving more, even days later. 

The combination of cow and goat milk with a dash of cream softens the sharpest notes and brings about an even taste that's intriguing and potent but not overwhelming. There's a beautiful tang with slightly sweet undertones. It's not overly nutty or earthy, though there are hints of both flavors. It's lighter than one would expect, smooth, velvety, and creamy with just the right amount of salt. Take one bite and let the flavors dance on your tongue. 

Under the slightly pliable rind sits a wonderful creamline that's oozy and smooth, and the inner section has a texture that's similar to fresh goat cheese, firmer and denser than the outermost layer. The overall mouthfeel is creamy, very creamy, though. 

Look at the lovely cream line 

There are layers to this cheese

It's an elevated wash-rind cheese that's sophisticated and beautiful, the Rolls-Royce of wash-rind cheeses. 

Pair this standout vegetarian product with a crusty French baguette or sourdough crackers. You can also place Hooper center stage on a cheese board along with dried apricots, fresh cherries, cornichons, Prosciutto or ham, and roasted pecans. Add slices of Hooper to green salads or tacos. It adds flavor to baked dishes, too, even though you’ll miss out on the beautiful texture in its natural state.

As far as beverages, try Hooper with Chardonnay, Rose, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Gamay, Dolcetto D’Alba, or Chenin Blanc. If beer is more your style, go with a pale ale or Saison. Mostly, just enjoy this cheese. It can stand on its own just fine, but it's also versatile for a wash-rind variety and pairs well with more than you might expect. 

Serve Hooper with a crisp Rose