Montealva

 

Montealva Cheese

 

It's hard to believe that in all the years Cured on Pearl Street in Boulder has been open, I had never been inside until a snowy day in March 2022. Despite the bitter-cold weather and just a few minutes after opening time, the place was hopping. There were people in line, waiting for their morning coffee and others getting ready to order sandwiches or other goodies. Before I got too far inside, I got distracted by the wonderful selection of chocolates, jams, and pantry items. Everything is presented beautifully, but when I eventually looked ahead, the cheese counter in the corner called to me as if a celestial light were shining upon it. 

Cured sells some wonderful cheese

The cheese section is where a limited selection of semi-soft, semi-hard, and hard cheeses sit atop an elegant gray counter. Upon closer inspection, it was obvious that Cured carries a variety of unique and unusual cheese from all over the world, and the cheesemongers there can tell you everything you need to know about each. The professional to whom I spoke was very, very knowledgeable and friendly, always a plus. He knew not just what each cheese tastes like but interesting little details about where and how the cheeses are made and aged. Initially, I went in thinking I would buy a super fancy product that I spied on their website, but it was temporarily unavailable. I hope to review that one another time once it's back in stock. There are some wonderfully intriguing selections from which to choose, so, moving to plan B, I opted for an interesting goat milk variety from Spain. 

 

 

Payoya goats in Andalusia, Spain

Montealva 

For over fifty years, the craft of cheesemaking has been shared throughout the Aguilar family in Southwest Spain. Using milk from a herd of over 450 Payoya goats -- a breed that almost went extinct but is, fortunately, still surviving in the beautiful but rugged Sierra de Cadiz region -- brother and sister, Pedro and Isabel, continue their family tradition as affineurs in the town of Torrecera, Jerez. There, they create an extraordinary award-winning cheese called Montealva. This beauty was first introduced to the United States about eight years ago and has become well recognized internationally for its lovely flavor and its beautiful cotton-white interior. 

Some rinds you can skip consuming

 

Inside the darker decorative rind -- rind pattern is an art form in and of itself, and the woven-grass pattern on Montealva is similar to that of Manchego -- that looks and smells (and tastes, though it's not recommended to go there with this type of rind!) like it has been rolled in dirt lies a supple paste that's bright and full of flavor. There is a strong barnyard smell that escapes the moment the wrapper is opened, but once the cheese is exposed to air, the musky, stinkier aroma dissipates. 

The flavor of this charming cheese is mild with more pronounced notes of citrus and a zingy tang that sneaks up on you without overwhelming your taste buds. Imagine a mild cheddar with a bit more spring in its step, one that makes you turn and take notice. The texture is creamy and smooth but slightly crumbly. Closer to the rind, the taste is more earthy, but the bulk of the interior is fruity, buttery, and sweet with just a hint of salt and nuttiness, a combination of flavors that some might call umami. The more it ages, the more the goaty flavor emerges.

 

Montealva is a lovely, uplifting cheese

 

Keeping with the tradition of cheese made by their ancestors, the Aguilar family makes sure that Montealva remains all-natural and free from any artificial colors or preservatives. This semi-firm cheese made from pasteurized goat milk is aged two months and pairs beautifully with light toast, Spanish olives, apples, honey, marmalade, dried apricots, or fresh figs. It can be used on sandwiches to liven them up or added to baked pasta or tomato dishes. Try it in an arugula and pear salad with a creamy balsamic dressing or grated over scrambled eggs for an uplifting breakfast sure to wake you up and brighten your day. 

As far as beverages, this cheese almost demands a fino sherry but pairs nicely with a Spanish rose, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, sparkling Cava, or a fruity Syrah. If beer is more your pleasure, Saison is a good option, as is a wheat beer.

Fino sherry pairs well with Montealva

Cheese Board Ideas

When it comes to cheese, finding the exact number of different varieties around the world is nearly impossible. There are so many! New varieties continually emerge while others are discontinued. Some estimate that there are close to two thousand types of this dairy product, and when it comes to cheese, people have strong opinions about what kind is best. A favorite of one person might be unappealing to others. Not everyone is down with the sour notes of Pont L'Eveque or Petit Munster, for example. However, creating a lovely cheese board that has the potential to please even the fussiest cheese connoisseurs is easy when you follow some guidelines from professionals in the industry. 

A note about terminology. There are people today who use charcuterie board and cheese board interchangeably, when, in fact, they are not the same thing. Though it's now acceptable to use the former when referring to the latter, traditionally, "charcuterie board" -- charcuterie being the French term related to prepared and cured meat products -- was used specifically to describe serving trays that are meat forward. As one might expect, a cheese board puts cheese on center stage.

Both eating and presenting cheese to guests should be enjoyable activities. Whether it's a large or small board, much of the joy of creating a specific array comes from being thoughtful about the selections of both cheeses and accompaniments. Entertaining can provide a great opportunity to introduce others to your favorites, but 

keep in mind the tastes of your guests. If you don't know, don't assume. 

The prudent way to go about selecting cheese for guests is to opt for at least one that's a classic, something that nearly everyone is sure to like.

Cheese boards can be presented before or after a meal or as part of a buffet-style fare. Typically those served after the main dish are considered a replacement for dessert or a course served right before dessert. These are usually smaller with fewer options than a standard cheese platter.

Photo by Mgg Vitchakorn - Un petit gout de fromage

Before you run to the store and start buying items for your cheese board, look for inspiration either online or in books. If you really want to indulge, spend some time getting lost on the Cheese Sex Death website and follow Erika on social media. In her newly published gorgeous and informative book, Cheese Sex Death, A Bible for The Cheese Obsessed, she suggests in The Book of Plating chapter the following when considering how to go about putting it all together:

 

1. Curate an Array of Delicious Things: Look for a variety of textures, colors, and flavor profiles. 

 

2. Bring It All to Room Temp: As always, temper both Cheesus and Her accompaniments before serving. [As the fat in cheese starts to warm up in temperatures around 68 degrees, the flavors become more pronounced. The texture also changes and becomes creamier, but limit the time cheese stays at room temperature to four hours.]

 

3. Plate with Purpose: Arrange each body from mild to strong, place their favorite accompaniments nearby, and give everything its own utensil. 

 

4. Enjoy Yourself: Plating is an act of worship, so set aside enough time so you can enjoy the process and express yourself.

 

Book by Erika Kubick - Cheese Sex Death - A Bible for The Cheese Obsessed

Getting more into specifics, when Elizabeth Chubbuck of Murray's Cheese was featured on the Today Show in 2020, she also suggested going from "mild to wild" when assembling a cheese board. Most agree that a selection of three to five cheeses is optimal, depending on the crowd you plan to serve. 

Using Elizabeth's suggestions, start with a soft, mild cheese such as fresh chevre or fresh mozzarella. Next in line would be a semi-soft cheese like as Brie or Red Hawk, cheeses that are guaranteed to please almost everyone, followed by a semi-hard variety such as Lamb Chopper or a nice Gouda. Add in a hard, sharper cheese like raw milk Manchego or Cave Rebel, and that leaves one more selection left, a walk on the wild side. In this spot, anything goes, from a wonderful blue cheese to a truffle cheese to a stinky favorite. Don't be afraid to ask your local cheesemonger for advice or suggestions, and take the time to learn which cheeses are best for cooking or served heated, and which shine at room temperature.

While variety is encouraged, cheese selections can also be themed and more uniform. Some ideas for themed presentations include a board consisting of local cheeses, cheeses from a particular country, seasonal selections, or items that are associated with a particular holiday. No matter what cheeses you choose, it's nice for guests to know what they are consuming. Cheese board labels are a great addition to your display. 

Once you have selected your cheeses, look for complimentary accompaniments. Items to consider are sliced bread or crackers, dried or fresh fruit, pickled fruits or vegetables, cured meat or pate, nuts, chocolate, jams or honey, dips, and crudité. Be thoughtful about the arrangement and the flavors. Some pungent herbed or flavored breads and crackers might not be a good match for cheese. Citrus fruit can also be a challenge because of the strong acidity that can overpower more subtle cheese flavors. A way to get around this is to broil or grill fruit slices or use a marmalade instead. Most other fruits don't need much preparation and complement cheese well, enhancing certain notes while contrasting the savory profile with a sweet one. As much as the board should look pretty, it should also be balanced, and items such as fresh fruit should never be placed on dry ingredients like crackers or bread because the juices will cause either to become soggy. 

In order to prepare a successful cheese arrangement, start with the largest items first and then add the accompaniments and garnishes last. In her book mentioned above, Erika has excellent advice when it comes to presentation. Make sure meats and fruits are offered in manageable bites. You can roll sliced meat or fold the slices into triangles. There's also the option of being more creative with your display by making meat flowers. Finishing touches can include brûléeing the top of cheese, or adding herbs, nuts, edible flowers, or other toppings to accentuate the cheese. You can get really creative with this, and as Erika suggests, enjoy yourself. Creating and sharing a cheese board should be something that makes your heart sing. 

Sample Cheese Board with A Focus on Milder But Interesting Cheeses:

The Cheeses

Chavrie Plain Goat Cheese 

Hartwell 

Midnight Moon

Sparkenhoe Red Leicester

Epoisses 

Bread And Crackers

Sliced Baguette

Carrs Wheat Crackers

Water Wheels

Meats

Prosciutto 

Pate de Campagne

Accompaniments 

Cornichon

Marcona Almonds

Coconut Dark Bark

Balsamic Reduction

Strawberries

Dried apricots

Tart cherry spread

Serving Utensils

Small Spoons (Cherry Spread, Balsamic Reduction, Nuts)

Cheese Knife (Hartwell)

Spreading Knife (Soft Cheese, Pate, Epoisses)

Mini Tongs (Cornichon, Fruits)

Other Additions and Decorations

Brulee Blood Orange Slices 

Edible flowers

Beverages

Wine

Beer

Sparkling Water

Willoughby

Willoughby is an elegant wash rind cheese by Jasper Hill. The original recipe was created by Marisa Mauro, owner and operator of Ploughgate Creamery in Vermont, a company known now for its small-batch artisanal cultured butter. You can check out some of the unique butter flavors here. Shortly after a fire at the Ploughgate creamery in 2011 caused production of Willoughby to cease, Marisa accepted Jasper Hill's offer to continue to develop the recipe. The result is another gourmet winner.

Upon opening the Willoughby wrapper, the smell of barnyard immediately escapes. When anyone suggests that this is a "gateway" to wash rinds, I beg to differ. It's mild but not nearly as mild in aroma or flavor as something like Red Hawk, the true gateway cheese. The more robust scent and taste shouldn't scare cheese samplers away, though. It's a nicely balanced and wonderful little round. The flavor is not overwhelming and doesn't punch you in the face, but it has a bite to it. On the funk-o-meter scale with 10 being a cheese that smells like old socks left in a teen's gym locker far too long with a flavor that raises eyebrows and 1 being Red Hawk, this rates as a 3.5, not too potent and not too mild. 

Inside the slightly sandy light pink-orange rind that's washed with Montanaro Vermouth di Torino, is a soft, creamy paste that holds its shape when cut. The interior is incredibly smooth and melts in your mouth. It's really lovely, as are many cheeses from Jasper Hill. The company does an outstanding job of collaborating and working with local dairy farmers to create intriguing artisan cheeses, Harbison being one of my all-time favorites. Like many other wash-rind cheeses, the outer layer offers flavors that are earthy and stronger than what's inside. 

Nearly everywhere I looked, I saw descriptions copying those on the Jasper Hill website suggesting that Willoughby emits an aroma of roasted beef and onions and has notes of peaches. If I concentrate really hard and imagine myself in a peach orchard, I can sort of force myself to detect a hint of peach while nibbling on this cow milk product, as there are some hints of fruitiness, but, for the life of me, I don't get the smell or taste of roasted beef and onions anywhere. I just don't, nor did my cheese-tasting companion. Still, I like the creative description considering that the cheese is beefy in a way, only that's more in terms of texture. It has substance and character. 

What jumps out are notes of straw and butter followed by a sharp tang finish that hits the back of the mouth. The potent tang might mask more subtle flavors initially, however, the nutty notes reminiscent of raw hazelnuts (minus the bitterness of the skin) and fresh cream shine through in the end. A bit of saltiness enhances the cheese overall. I wouldn't say that Willoughby is overly complex, but it has nice layers of flavor. This is a cheese that will please nearly everyone. 

The plump little round that's made with traditional rennet goes well with pain de champagne, cured meats, stone fruits, cornichons, walnuts, and even crackers with honey. Heating mellows the stronger edge of the cheese and enhances the nutty flavors. Though it's not an ideal cooking cheese, it could be successfully used in a potato gratin or with other cheeses in a fancy mac and cheese. 

As far as pairing beverages with Willoughby, you can't go wrong with Gewurztraminer, Riesling, or Malbec. It pairs equally well with Blanc de Noir, Jurancon, Rose, Sangiovese, and Viognier. You can also try it with a scotch or red ale, cider, Calvados, or a good stout.