Sparkenhoe Red Leicester

David and Joe Clarke with their pedigree Holsetn-Friesian cows.

Whenever I sample English cheeses, I can't help but think of Wallace and Gromit. Unlike the wild adventures of this claymation duo, however, many English cheeses are predictably mild and simple. You won't get huge complexities in flavor, but that's not to say English cheeses are bland, far from it. They are simply more subtle than the other, more robust cheeses of the world. 

Eating cheese on the moon.

Even if you haven't tried English cheeses before, you will find something familiar about them. For example. Red Leicester is not a cheddar, though it's similar to a very young one. It's not American cheese either, but the flavor will ignite a sense of remembrance for those who grew up eating American cheese. 

A Leicester is the type of product most people imagine when they think of cheese, a generic, mild-tasting but delicious hard cheese that nearly everyone can appreciate. Leicester is the essence of cheese and has a long history that dates back to the 1700's, though this particular Red Leichester has only been made since 2005, created by David and Jo Clarke on their dairy farm called Sparkenhoe in Leicestershire.

Sparkenhoe Red Leicester wheels are hand made and cloth bound with a little lard to age. The natural rind that develops is musty, earthy, salty and has notes of wild mushrooms. Inside the thin rind that shows a bit of blue and white mold on it lies an eye-catching cheese. Added annatto, a natural food coloring derived from plants, gives Red Leicester its beautiful orange hue. 

Red Leicester has a beautiful orange hue.

Made with traditional rennet, Sparkenhoe Red Leicester is a raw milk cheese that has a lovely fragrant smell. The first bite will tease your taste buds with just a dash of sweetness, but the brief gentle sweetness is replaced by a smooth, milk and nut flavor with just a hint of light, fruity tang. There's far less tang than in a cheddar cheese. This is a very mild flavor, one that's more sophisticated than an American cheese but has similar flavor notes. It's the ideal cheese for casseroles, sandwiches, mac and cheese and even for snacking. Serving it with crackers and chutney or fruit is ideal. 

The texture is slightly crumbly but still moist enough to hold together well. You might notice some cracks in the cheese, especially on the sides near the rind. Occasionally some very light mold will develop here, but do not fear. This only enhances the flavor. Sparkenhoe Red Leicester is a hard, somewhat dry cheese that's aged 18 months, but it's not like any of the hard Italian grating cheeses. Oddly, with a lower fat content, it feels slightly creamier in your mouth than any grating cheeses, and the flavor isn't as tangy or pronounced. 

In its subtlety, Red Leicester ends up being an intriguing cheese. You can bet that pretty much everyone will enjoy this cheese, even kids, though it has enough fineness to appeal to adult cheese connoisseurs too. 

Liquor Mart in Boulder has an outstanding selection of wines, beer, champagne and more.

Kevin Downs, Assistant wine manager at Liquor Mart in Boulder, Colorado, suggests the following pairings for this cheese:

For this cheese, if I was to do a red, I'd do a fruity Cabernet Sauvignon, one that isn't too tannic or heavy. South America would be a could choice, such as Loscano Grand Reserve from Argentina, $18.. From California, Wyatt ($16.99) or J Lohr ($15.99) would work well and from Washingtom, try Ex Libris ($21.99). Other reds that would be good choice would be Syrah ( Jim Barry's Lodge Hill Reserve Shiraz would be perfect at $16) and Rioja, such as Arnegui Crianza ($12.99) or Lan Crianza at $13.99. These wines are medium in body and tannins and would stand up to the mild to moderate nuttiness of the cheese without overpowering it.

For white, a Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect choice, especially form New Zealand, with the racy flavors of gooseberry and grapefruit working well. Ana is a great choice, at $15.99, as well as Dog Point and Starborough. A chardonnay that is not heavily oaked would also work very well such as Latour's Grande Ardeche from France, at only $14.99. From California, Lioco, at $19.99, would be perfect.

Lastly, bubbles work well with this cheese. Something between a brut and an extra dry comes to mind, so Prosecco is a good choice, such as Lamarca ($12.49). Elegance Blanquet de Limoux (Limoux is the birthplace of sparkling wine) is another good match for $12.99

Prosecco, Lamarca is a good choice to pair with this cheese.