Midnight Moon

Cypress Grove's Midnight Moon

Swoon!

I'm late posting this... by a few years. Sometimes I start a review and get stuck. Words fail when I'm completely blown away by a cheese, so I have to pull back and think about it for a while. Time passes, and then I sample the product again and have the same reaction and wonder how I can do the cheese justice with my writing. So much of eating, especially tasting, is an experience, indescribable. I'm going to do my best and start by saying it's another hit from the wonderful cheesemakers at Cypress Grove. Midnight Moon is a goat milk Gouda that's sophisticated and captivating. Imagine a late-night date that includes a couple, each dressed in elegant attire, slow dancing under the stars to set the tone of this review. 

There are goat Goudas and then there's Midnight Moon. The latter is smooth, rich, inviting, and tangy but not sour. The texture is smoother and more velvety than most Goudas. How the same ingredients can turn into such different products always intrigues me, but, when it comes to cheese, much of the flavor and texture depends on the quality of ingredients, how the cheese is made, and, of course, the aging process. Despite the beautiful ivory interior of Midnight Moon, the taste is darker, more intriguing, and sexier than any other goat Gouda I have tried. There's a certain Je ne sais quoi about it, something like umami but for dairy. It's the difference between carob and chocolate. One is OK, and the other gets you excited because it's deeply complex and maybe hints at being a little bit naughty without crossing any lines it shouldn't.

Gouda or Goudse Kaas, one of the most popular dairy products in the world, is a semi-hard cow's milk cheese from the southern regions of the Netherlands. Midnight Moon is made in Holland, a little tidbit I learned recently. Gouda is most often yellow with a distinctive flavors that some describe as caramelly and nutty. The more the cheese ages, the deeper and richer the flavor becomes. The texture also changes as the cheese matures with crystals forming. There are two types of cheese crystals. One, calcium lactate - a crystaline salt, that causes the consistency to be more crumbly, crunchy even, and the other type of crystals that can form are protein-based, usually from amino acids like Tyrosine that are released and then group together during the aging process, leaving little crystal deposits behind as petite gifts. The crystals that form in Midnight Moon tend to be finer, less obvious grains but add just a bit of texture, especially as the cheese ages, and because this cheese is made with goat milk, the flavor is distinctive without being shocking.  

Crystals in traditional Gouda

With traditional Gouda, the cheese-making process includes a step called "washing the curd" in which some of the whey is drained and replaced with hot water after the milk is curdled. The same process is done with Colby, Havarti, Fontina, and a few other cheeses as well. This step removes some of the lactic acid, which, in turn, results in a milder, sweeter cheese, even though some of the lactose (milk sugar) is also reduced. The finished product has a low PH compared to most other aged cheeses. After the curds have had a chance to hang out at the bottom of the vat and knit, think more fusing together and less making sweaters, they are pressed, soaked in brine, air dried, and then left to ripen.

Curds knitting

This goat Gouda is made with vegetarian rennet and aged six months or more in caves. The flavor is often described as nutty and buttery with a goat tang that's not overwhelming. As the cheese develops, the flavor intensifies, and the texture becomes drier. In the early stages, there's a nice fruity and sweet taste, even a hint of caramel notes, that diminishes as the cheese matures and becomes tangier and bold. As you can imagine, awards seem to rain down on this unique product. 

Midnight Moon can be eaten plain, served with crackers and jam, eaten with fresh or dried fruit, added to sandwiches or baked noodle dishes, or partially melted on crusty bread. You can also serve this cheese with oat biscuits, chocolate graham crackers, or Rain Coast Crisp crackers, especially the hazelnut cranberry flavor. On the Cypress Grove website, there are recipes for Thumbprint Cookies and Midnight Moon® Baked Penne.

Raincoast Crisps

A Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Syrah, Barbera D'Alba, or Pinot Blanc would pair nicely with Midnight Moon. This cheese also goes well with dessert or sweet wines such as Dubonnet Rouge (aperitif), Riesling, Sweet Sherry, and even a not too sweet Ruby Port. But I like interesting, not traditional pairings. If you're more into beer, the folks at Cypress Grove suggest a Belgian Dark, Stout, or Trippel.