Oh My Stinky Cheeses - Ardrahan

They make my eyes weep and my nose crinkle, but oh how I love cheeses that emit funky aromas.

Smelling cheese.

Prepare your olfactory receptors for Ardrahan, because the odor is bound to cause some serious activity in your nose. Some claim the odor of stinky cheese is like rotten mushrooms. Others say it's like dirty socks, farts, bellybutton lint, a barnyard floor, road kill, lady parts or a man's shirt soaked in sweat and left sitting in a wad for three days. No matter how you describe it, the smell is distinctive and potent, and that of Ardrahan is one of the stronger aromas in the stinky cheese world.

Ardrahan is made by the Burns family on their farm in County Cork, Ireland. The larger area of County Cork includes beautiful coastlines, mountainous regions and rolling pastures. Though the cheese was first made in the 80s, the Burns family has been making cheeses for generations. They use milk from their herd of pedigree Friesian cows.

Cork, Ireland

Friesian Cows

I feel a little bit dirty when I eat a cheese like this, like I shouldn't be doing it, but it's too tempting not to. Maybe I shouldn't like it, but I do. Who cares if people look at me funny when I admit this?  It's so good, but it somehow feels like it should be so bad! And though the smell is not what I call pleasant, I can't resist going back to stick my nose inside the wrapper. Which reminds me, be prepared for the entire refrigerator to be bathed in the aroma when storing this cheese. It's not easily contained.

Just like after eating super spicy foods, sitting in the afterglow of a stinky cheese repas is somewhat euphoric, perhaps similar to what a cat experiences after indulging in catnip.

Ardrahan cheese comes in wheels.

Ardrahan is a gritty little cheese. In the same way a young whisky will put hair on your chest, this cheese will make you stand up and pound your chest. In other words, keeping with the liquor analogy, it is not a cognac. What I mean to say is that it's not Epoisses. You won't find something ultra mild and nutty hiding inside the brine-washed, moldy rind. On the other hand, it has what seem like supernatural qualities, and a few eyebrows will be raised when the aroma wafts through the room.

As far as stinky cheeses go, this one is on the harsh side. Even when it's not overly mature, a faint ammonia flavor can be detected. Some cringe at this, but I love it. It's pungent, strong and flavorful with a big earthy taste. You can imagine yourself in the midst of a farmyard when you eat Ardrahan. Yes, there are notes of nuts, and compared to the odor, the flavor is mild. Still, this cheese isn't for the meek. Those who are regular connoisseurs and appreciate a cheese with a strong personality will go bonkers over this one.

I detected a hint of bitterness that wasn't at all unpleasant, but, like with coffee or chocolate, some people don't like more complex flavors in their cheeses. The tang that catches in the back of the throat lingers long after the last bite, making this a cheese to remember.

Ardrahan cheese has a meaty texture but feels creamy in your mouth.

The texture isn't exactly delicate either. Underneath the thin, slightly sandy, sticky, beautiful golden-orange edible rind sits a chewy, slightly sticky interior, one that feels meaty yet smooth in your mouth. People claim it's chalky, but don't let that worry you. It's more that it doesn't have the extra oily texture that some semi-soft cheeses do. It has a drier finish is all, but it's still creamy. Though this semi-soft beauty isn't considered a true melting cheese, it can be used in cooking, as long as you are OK with the strong flavor. Of course, a cheese like this on a fat piece of toasted baguette is my idea of heaven. And vegetarians rejoice, because this one is made with vegetarian rennet.

Pair Ardrahan with a pinot noir. Some suggest a Riesling or a Chianti, but I prefer something bold and fruity without excess sweetness for a cheese this strong.

Pinot noir goes well with Ardrahan.

Gubbeen Cheese Review

In my cheese-reviewing escapades, I have found that, even more so than with chocolate, each cheese has a unique personality and history. With cheese, it's not just about the taste; it's about how the cheese is made, where it is aged, what kind of milk is used and where it is produced. The more I learn about a cheese, the more I appreciate it, especially when I discover a cheese maker and those who age the cheese are concerned with the environment and the well-being of their animals.

When it comes to Gubbeen, I was drawn in by the buttery flavor, and I grew to love it after I read about the cheese maker and all that goes in to making this curious little cheese.

Ireland near Shull, County Cork

In addition to cheddar cheese, Ireland is known for its sweet and mild cheeses, and Gubbeen is no exception. The warm, humid climate where Gubbeen is produced is ideal for several breeds of grass-grazing cows that produce rich milk. The mixed breeds provide milk that ends up being the perfect blend of butterfat and protein. Tom Ferguson, the herdsman at the Gubbeen farm, tends to the following breeds on his farm: British Friesian, Simmental, Jersey, Shorthorn and Ireland's native Kerry Cow. All the animals are fed a GMO-free diet and graze on the lush grasses in the area approximately eight months of the year. 

Black Kerry Cows

There is only one Gubbeen cheese, and, in a sense, the Gubbeen dairy only produces one cheese. According to their website:

At the Gubbeen Dairy we make effectively one cheese - Gubbeen. Like the Chateaux that produce just one wine from their land, our milk produces Gubbeen Cheese - the trick is what we do in the curing processes. Cheese vintages come from aging plus the milk quality and the seasons

Gubbeen Cheese

Giana, Tom's wife, spent time in Spain and France where she learned the art of small-batch cheese making before settling in Ireland to continue making cheese. After some experimentation, Giana and her husband Tom began making Gubbeen consistently and they and the Gubbeen dairy team have been doing so since 1979.

Giana Ferguson

Gubbeen is not a typical wash-rind cheese. Three layers of bloom from different organisms make up this rind. It all starts with a basic yeast which grows for three days in curing rooms that have been inoculated with what is known as microseeds of the Gubbeen Flora. It is the Bacterium Linens mold that gives the rind its slightly orange appearance. Many stinky cheeses such as Epoisse or fresh Munster have an orange or pink wash rind. As the Gubbeen cheese develops, it is treated with salt and water washes, but white wine is also added which balances the PH of the rind. Toward the end of the aging process, a top bloom forms that enriches the overall flavor of the cheese.

Neal's Yard Dairy Gubbeen Cheese

This is one of those semi-soft cheeses that is more firm than soft, but there's no mistake that the cheese is smooth and creamy. Tiny holes form throughout the beautiful golden interior. It's slightly chewy, a little bit sticky, and the cheese has a nice mouth feel. The lingering remnants leave an oily film that clings nicely to your mouth after you swallow, leaving a lasting flavor, one that immediately made me think of butter, luscious butter. Yes, the flavor that really stands out is that of butter,

What struck me most about this pasteurized cow's milk cheese is that it is very mild. Take a very fine mild cheddar and serve it with a slab of the best butter in the world, and you have Gubbeen.

Toward the rind, the flavor is a bit stronger but still on the mild side. I detected very slight hints of mushroom, cashews and a very mild straw flavor from a barnyard. Even though there are notes of straw, and you can even detect a faint taste of the barnyard or the country, it's not anything that will shock or scare unadventurous cheese eaters away. Though a pasture or meadow comes to mind, Gubbeen isn't in the category of the big stinky cheeses. It's far too mild for that. There really is no attention-grabbing aspect of this cheese, but it's oddly addicting. Perhaps in its subtlety, it becomes more intriguing.

Gubbeen can be used in recipes or served plain on a big slice of crusty bread or in a salad. Try it with an aromatic white wine such as an Alsace Riesling. Vegetarians will be happy to know that Gubbeen is made with vegetable rennet.

Riesling